Day 29
First order
of business today was to confirm our seats for tomorrow’s train to Prague. It’s a 7hr trip and we did not want to find
ourselves sitting one behind the other. We
caught the metro to the main Keleti station and found ourselves at a very
different part of the station from where we’d first seen on arrival on
Wednesday. While still in need of
ongoing TLC – the main entrance is actually gorgeous and the metro platforms
are all modern and very clean.
Seats sorted
we took the metro back to the last station before the Danube so we could visit
St Stephens Basillica. It had been on
yesterday’s Pest itinerary but we spent so much time at the National Museum
that we ran out of time.
Named in
honour of Stephen, the first King of Hungary (c 975–1038), whose supposed right
hand is housed in the reliquary, it was consecrated in 1905 having taken 54
years to build. Having seen the interior
I am not surprised. Opulent doesn’t come
close – coloured marble, gold leaf, a gorgeous painted domed ceiling and an
utterly spectacular portrait of the Black Madonna.
We had a
quick look through the Christmas Market setup in the forecourt but the howling
wind made it a less than pleasant time so we headed for the Chain Bridge and
our way across the Danube. Well rugged
up against a really feral wind, we walked across the bridge stopping in he
middle for the fantastic views back to the Pest side.
The line for
the funicular up to the castle was long and slow moving but we had no desire to
trudge up the hill so we sucked it up and shuffled along till it was our turn. Built in 1870, destroyed during WW2 and
re-built between 1975 – 85 it takes 24 passengers at a time up a 30deg hill in
just over 90 seconds.
The
views were fantastic despite the wind.
Once we got out into the castle grounds, the sound of drumming caught
our attention. The changing of the guard
outside the Sandor Palace (the official residence of the President of Hungary)
was pretty cool.
It was
pointless trying to find somewhere out of the wind so we tightened our scarves
and headed out along the terrace for more incredible views across the Danube.
At the end of the end of the terrace we went
down the stairs and had a look round some of the old parts of the original
castle area.
Like so many
other European castles, Buda Castle was always a work in progress. The oldest parts date from around 1300 but in
the intervening years every king, queen, emperor and invader has added bits,
destroyed bits, rebuilt bits – its impossible to describe all the building and
rennos in a few lines. It has been home
to Ottomans, Austrians, Hungarians but the massive Baroque palace we can see
today was built between 1749 and 1769.
The latest
destructions happened during the Seige of Budapest in 1945. Work is ongoing and we saw current
reconstruction of the stables which when finished may well look like its been
there for 300 years. The castle houses
the National Library, the Budapest History Museum and a swathe of government
offices.
Out of the
castle confines and into the ‘town’ part of Castle Hill (hehe) through some
really lovely pretty streets (there you go with the two faces thing again) and
a lunch stop before heading towards St Matthias Church and the gorgeous Fishermans
Bastion which sits atop the steep hill down to the Danube and provides mazing
views of the Parliament building across the river.
We wanted to
see Parliament House lit up at night, and with sunset just after 4pm we didn’t have
long to wait. We took a walk round the
top of the castle walls past City Hall, the Mary Magdalene Tower (all that
remains of a 14th century church bombed in 1945) and back to the
Fishermans Bastion to find a falconer waiting to part tourists from their forints.
We stopped for some afternoon tea and headed towards the Bastion. The early
evening views are spectacular.
Back to the
Pest side by #16 bus and a beer (and a meat & cheese platter for dinner) at
the Longford Irish Pub and we headed home.
Weary and a bit footsore but delighted with todays touristing. Those damn two faces again – gorgeous Buda,
grubby Pest (except for the areas right close to the Danube) but acknowledging
that Hungary has only been a democracy since 1990 and their financial pie has a
lot to go round.… Budapest you’ve surprised us.
Great read! Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteHi there,
ReplyDeleteWe are going to be spending a couple of days in Budapest and this has been a very useful guide. Thank you for putting it together
Thanks! Did Beerman visit any Ruin Pubs while there? We have intentions of visiting a few of them this October, as well as a night time Bath Party.
ReplyDeleteNo we didn't check out the ruin bars - judging by the lines waiting to enter we were the 'wrong generation' - plenty of other paces to find beers though
ReplyDelete