Pest needs a kaarcher

Day 28

Two faces of Pest.....  I said last night that Budapest was a city of two faces, and we saw more of it today.  If you are close to the Danube, tourist areas etc the buildings are in great condition, clean painted etc but you only have to venture off the track a few blocks and the decrepit state of some facades is so evident. 

Budapest needs a kaarcher … several dozen of them in fact.  So many buildings really could benefit from a jolly good wash!  It does however have some pretty cool street art. 

We started off this morning with plans to visit the Holocaust Memorial Centre.  Transport sorted (tram 4 or 6 from Blaha Luja ter) to Corvin-negyed and a short walk to the centre. 

We came round the corner to find the two big grey doors closed.  Just a bit pissed because a) I had checked online that they were open and b) the sign said ‘open Tuesday – Sunday’ and today being Thursday it should have been open.  Another potential visitor arrived just as Tony pulled the door unlocked open to see if there was anyone inside.  A man appeared, swung open the inner glass door and growled ‘we’re closed.’  As I tried to point out that the sign said it should be open he was even ruder – ‘that doesn’t matter, we’re closed’ … hmmmmm great way to get garner support from a gentile.  I’ll be leaving them a little message on their review page!

Closed up tight - the Holocaust Memorial Centre

 OK – well that itinerary item was stymied so next stop was the Hungarian National Museum just  short stroll way. We passed the amazing (but in need of TLC) Museum of Decorative arts on the way

Wow is all I can say about the Hungarian National Museum.  It’s housed in a purpose-built edifice constructed in 1837-47 and is beautiful inside and out.

An extraordinary collection of all things Hungarian tracing the story of the people of Hungary from bronze age to 1990. Bronze pots, weapons and tomb treasures right through  gold buckles and jewellery from the 10^th century to the Austro Hungarian Empire to the fall of the eastern bloc and the end of the Warsaw Pact in 1990.  All beautifully set out featuring artefacts, documentation, paintings & photos etc and a bigger bonus ..... all co-labelled in English.

I loved these Cicada buckles form the 7th century

A gold and silver Torah shield from 1794

A sample board from the Hungarian Bot Factory circa 1880

Just one display case chronicling the Jewish people in Hungary - I imagine they feel the Holocaust Memorial Centre has the lead on this - what a shame we couldn't see it! .. grrr!

Barbed wire from the Iron Curtain 

Highlight if you are a classical music fan is a piano once belonging to Beethoven.  This gem was made in the UK in 1816-17 and given to Franz Liszt by an admirer who bought it from Beethoven's estate.  In 1873 Liszt donated it to the Hungarian National Museum.

We spent ages in the museum before wandering down to the Danube for the fantastic views across to the Buda side which we plan to explore tomorrow. 

Next stop was the 2005 installation ‘Shoes on the Danube’ which commemorates the 3500 Budapest residents (including about 800 Jews)  shot by the  fascist Arrow Cross militiamen in Budapest during World War II. They were ordered to take off their shoes, and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away.

 This moving sculpture is very close to the magnificent Hungarian Parliament Building so we stopped here before heading in search of a very late lunch (it was going on for 4pm) which actually turned into afternoon tea. 

Another thing which has fascinated me is the contrast in architectural styles.  N one corner you’ll have something built during the mid-late 1800’s all grand and ornate and right next door or across the street is something from the soviet era – blocky, stocky chunky solid and you can imagine it being designed by some big weightlifter turned architect.

The Liszt Academy is just round the corner from our apartment – I snuck in for a photo of the stunning foyer. 

Tonight we’re going to try the Mazel Tov Jewish restaurant and ruin bar almost next door to our block and tomorrow we'll explore the Buda side of the Danube.

I wonder what face we'll see over there?